Thank you so much for sharing Carol! Hi Susan! I really like the Gutermann thread, but others may have their own preferences. I always use 2 layers of minky. A patterned one and a solid coordinated one. I lay them out flat, wrong sides together, then spray with a basting spray.
I use a corner template and with all four corners together, use my rotary cutter and round my corners. Using another coordinating minky, I cut 2 inch strips and sew them together like binding and trim that seam. Then using my walking foot , I sew my binding into the minky with a half inch seam.
I then my binding over the seam and sew my binding down with a decorative stitch. I trim the minky close to the stitch so it shows. I have literally made hundreds using this method. I tried them like yours and could never get them to look right. I use aurifil thread. I have never had a problem seeing through lawyers of minky. I did once. I had always bought Shannon or Michael Miller at a quilt fabric store.
There is such a difference in quality and how they sewed. I am not trying to be mean or rude!! It is just my experience after sewing minky for more than 12 years and making hundreds of blankets. This may sound a little crazy, I have the very best results by hand basting after pinning. Great results! No stretching…. If so, how to make sure you are sewing a straight line with the minky stretching? Also, when you topstitch, which fabric goes on the bottom?
I would test it with a small scrap piece before you start your project! I love minky blankets. When I first started sewing with minky I used a ball point needle.
And lengthened the stich length. And plenty of pins. I used minky on both sides. I did use a walking foot. Then I wanted to find a faster way of sewing. I own a serger and I tried a practice piece and it was wonderful. This is the only way I will sew minky I only use 4 pins, about 3 inches from the edge on each side. And I rounded the corners. Leaving a space to turn right side out. All of my blankets are well used and washed and dried.
I use drier sheets with no problem. Hi, I read all of your ideas for working with minky before starting a very brisk need to make them for many people. I make the lovey size and crib size. The best idea I have had since starting this enormous project is to use a Leather sewing needle.
The ball bearing needle did work on thinner projects but if I use a leather needle I get no knots below and it does not break. It makes a nice clean stitch and saves money because they cost less than ball bearing needles. I make them customized so if they ask for 2 layers of minky and a quilt batting inside, I can do it with ease. I always wash the cotton or flannel fabric beforehand because they shrink but I do not pre-wash minky.
I am using the plush deluxe fur minky now for some blankets, it is very expensive but the results are fabulous. Just make sure to take your bobbin holder right out and clean all below there on your sewing machine after each project. I also vacuum the sewing room a lot now, Thanks for your help! Thank you everyone for sharing your minky experiences.
Your great tips are very useful to an inexperienced minky sewer. Your email address will not be published. Sharing is caring! Pin Me! Share on Facebook Share a Tweet. While this combined with the nap adds to the overall plushness, it can be a little tricky to sew without the right techniques. First, lay your piece of minky fabric on a flat surface — this can be done on the floor, dining room table or a cutting mat depending on the size.
Use a ballpoint pen or a permanent marker to mark your cutting lines or curves on the back of the fabric. If you want to be a little more careful, lay your ruler back along the line and use it as a guide for the blade. Hold a little pressure and drag the knife along the marked line, and this will only cut the backing, not the fibers underneath. This creates much less of a mess, while allowing you to keep a plush edge. Shoot for something with shorter blades and a pointy tip for better accuracy.
Dealing with minky fabric mess is about as easy as it gets. Take a wet washcloth and gather all your pieces, and throw them in the dryer. Let them tumble around in the dryer on low or no heat for five to ten minutes, and all of the small fibers will end up in your lint trap. Just as we mentioned how minky stretch influences cutting, stretching can also be a bit of an issue when sewing.
Luckily, a few techniques can stabilize the fabric, making it easier to sew and work with. All you have to do is pinch the two pieces of fabric in place, then pin it. Once the first row of pins is in place, start pinning the second row parallel to the first, with pins in alternating positions.
When you take the first row of pins out to sew, the second row of pins will keep the fabric from sliding. Of course, take the second row of pins out once that side of the fabric has been finished. We recommend a straight stitch with a polyester thread when sewing with minky fabric, and the most important thing to remember is to up your stitch. Start with a three- or three and a half-millimeter stitch length, and you can always up it to four millimeters if needed and depending on how your machine is handling the fabric.
Minky fabric is a knit, so using a stretch needle will help prevent making holes in the fabric and it helps prevent skipped stitches. The end is rounded and not quite as sharp as a universal needle, and the scarf where the thread goes through is larger, which allows it to go through the fabric easier.
No, Since Minky is polyester and does not shrink, you do not need to pre-wash minky fabric. However, you will need Pre-wash any other fabric that is not synthetic like polyester, such as cotton that will be sewn together with the Minky. No, you cannot iron on minky fabric. Because it is synthetic polyester and made from petroleum based products, it will melt when heat is applied.
If you iron it the minky will melt, become distorted and then harden into a rough material. If you need to iron the cotton when sewing it together with minky, the best way to approach this is to iron it beforehand and apply starch to keep it wrinkle-free longer.
It is pretty simple and definitely a beginner sewing project!
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